The delights of Zhongyang Dajie in Harbin

Today I decided to hunt out the internet and I discovered the delightful Zhong Yang Dajie street mall. I am currently sitting in Cezanne Coffee in the Euro Plaza, sipping a latte, listening to strains of fur elize in the background, watching young affluent chinese consumers with their laps dogs (definitely pets, not their dinner) breezing in and out of Belgian Chocalatiers while I browse free wifi internet. If I had to do it all again, I wouldn’t have stayed at Bei Bei hotel opposite the railway station but would have rather booked myself into the Holiday Inn at the top of Zhong Yang Dajie for Y300 per night. If only I had known.

If I wasn’t so concerned about the weight of my bags, I too would be in the shops. I am surrounded by every luxury goods store you could imagine, from IWC and Armani to Hugo Boss and Louis Vuitton. I have been to few malls that compete with this one, and none have taken me by such surprise

Into Opium’s Den

I don’t have much to say about Harbin. The people seem quite friendly, but after my travel nightmare of the last few days and with being sick, I am trying to shut out the world rather than curiously inviting it in.

I tried to solicit help from the hotel staff to aid me in buying a train ticket. Although I got lots of smiles and giggles from the female staff, all they could do for me was point me to the train station across the square. Thanks.

I am in staying in the Hotel. For 180 Yuan I checked in at 6 am this morning and the room is old, reasonably clean and the perfect sanctuary in which to recuperate from flu and my travel nightmare of the last three days.

There is a Californian Beef Noodle next door and a KFC across the road. There are plenty of food stalls next to the station, on the right as you exit, so my immediate needs are all taken care of. About 15 minutes walk away on Jihong Jie I saw a place called English First. I went in and spoke to a teacher, Casey who is a Nigerian English teacher that has lived in China for 5 years and loves the place. It was great to speak to someone in English. I think it has been more than a week since I have had a conversation rather than struggled simply to make myself understood.

I found it really easy to get myself a train ticket today. I managed to scrawl down a few phrases onto paper and made my way off to the ticket booth. I had the ticket I wanted in no time at all. Wait a second, I am getting ahead of myself. I think I have the ticket I wanted. Only once I get on the overnight train to Beijing tomorrow I will know if I have got the ticket I wanted!

Engrish, Engrish, anyone Engrish?

I remember hearing on CNN a few years ago that “there are currently more people learning English in China that there are living in the United States.” I am now beginning to suspect that this statement is just fear mongering propaganda against China.

I think your jobs won’t be taken by billions of English speaking Chinese any time soon.
Although I was impressed by the English spoken by the Chinese Immigrations and Customs officials, I think that it is an island of English in the China that I have so far experienced.

I found my non-existent Russian got me a lot further than English. After being deserted at the border, I managed to get a ride into Suifenhe with some Russian women and after they got out, our taxi driver suddenly produced a piece of paper with three places written on it in English: “train station”, “bus station” and “hotel”. I indicated that I wanted the bus station and told him the I wanted to go to Harbin. I then realised that I had no money. This being his problem as well as my own, he was very quick to work out that I needed to exchange money and within meters of me showing him that I needed to exchange money, there was someone sitting in the front seat of the car with wads of Yuan and we soon parked in a dark alley. Oops!

I didn’t even know what the official exchange rate was yet. Does it really matter? I knew I was on a hiding for nothing. All my dollars and rubles got me 750 yuan. It was 850 and then the guy took back 100. Knowing enough to know that I was getting ripped off, I demanded my money back upon which he handed me 10 yuan and stepped out of the car.

I also know I got ripped off by the taxi driver. I didnt know how much exactly I was paying him, but I know that at the rate I just got, it was far too many dollars or rubles! I was only so relieved to see a few buses, and I have never been so pleased to see a hoard of Russians.

Unfortunately, as far as I could ascertain, none of the buses were headed for Harbin, and when I entered the nearby railway station, I was greeted by my familiar friends; Chinese Immigrations and Customs. I made a quick U-turn. This was the train station for departures back to Russia. Before I managed to get out of the building, I did have someone in a uniform snatch a book of mine out of my hand to see what I was reading. It was my useless guide book. What guide books starts with “The phrases below aim to give you some assistance but a phrase book really is a necessity”. If you are going to include phrases, why don’t you add a few pages to the book and make it equally as comprehensive as the Russian and Mongolian part of the book?

I am starting to feel like an illiterate deaf mute, completely unable to communicate with the outside world!

Before I go any further, I would like to say this. I have always felt that English speaking people are generally terrible travelers as they expect others to be able to speak to them in English. It is for this reason that I have made an effort to learn German while I have lived in Switzerland despite the fact that I could quite easily live without it. I knew that in coming to China I would have a little difficulty, but it is also one of the reasons that I decided I wanted to travel by train. It makes it relatively straight forward as I could stick to major cities where I expected it to be easier. I had no intention of being stuck in Suifenhe without an onward ticket.

My struggle continued. I eventually understood that I needed to be at another railway station and I was pointed in the correct direction. Convinced that if I walked along the tracks I would eventually get there, I set out on foot. After about an hour of getting nowhere near to anything resembling a train station, and heading into a rather industrial looking area, all the time being stared at and pointed at, I turned around and decided to head off to a police station that I had seen. That was not entirely fruitful, but not pointless either. Although no one spoke English, across the road I saw a building that said “Harbin Railway Company” or something like that. I made my way over there and although I still got no one who spoke English, I managed to find three teenagers that, with my basic Russian, a little Engrish, and a lot of charades and drawing of pictures were able to take me to the correct station, and buy me a ticket to Harbin, for only 80 Yuan. I will forever be grateful to those strangers.


I had a 10 hour wait in the cold of Suifenhe and by the time my train rolled at in at 19:58 I new I was getting sick. I was so pleased to find a hotel this morning in Harbin about 30 minutes after I arrived at 5:30 am and I have spent the day in the grips of flu. I hope I don’t have SARS or something! I miss Vladivostok!

One other thing. My guide book told me not to get off the train when it arrives in Harbin as you will be in Harbin North but you actually want to be in Central Harbin. But when there was not a sole person left in my carriage, I couldn’t bring myself to stay on the train for another 20 minutes and I am so glad I didn’t. Who knows where I would be now. The first stop of mine was Harbin Central. If anyone reading this wants to make there way from Vladivostok to Harbin, there is a lot of mis-information out there. Feel free to send me a comment and I will tell you what I know, and what I have learnt. Although I think it isn’t the quickest, I think you have the greatest degree of certainty of getting to Harbin if you take the 3 day (40 hours and 10 minutes), 780 kilometre train (No 351) from Vladivostok to Harbin.

Vladivostock to Sui Fen He (Suifenhe)

As I stood waiting for the victory parade to start in Moscow and I watched the bored soldiers puffing away in the cold, I thought to myself to get a pack of cigarettes to try offer to boarder officials to help alleviate their boaredom, should they decide to pick on me on my way out of Russia and into China.

I was up at 3am, had checked out by 3:30 and was waiting for the 4am bus at Vladivostok station by 3:45am. By 4:10 there was no sign of said bus and I was getting a little worried. With much relief it arrived at 4:30. As I stepped on I handed my proof of payment and thanked the women who took it in Russian. “I speak English you know” she replied in perfect English. Brilliant!

Anne was leading a group to Beijing and had been put on the bus with her group to travel as far as Suifenhe where she would direct me to a bus that would take me to Harbin, or that was my understanding at least.

I was woken when we arrived in Pogrinitsa (I think) and Anne asked me for my ticket to Suifenhe. What ticket? I only had one ticket and I had given that to her. I made her problem mine and she went into some office, came running out with my passport and had soon sorted me out and told me to stay on her bus to Suifenhe as planned.

As we approached the boarder, I stashed all currency I had in my camera bag as I had heard that a strict interpretation of Russian Customs regulations entitles official to confiscate it. I had read terrible things about the Russian side of this boarder crossing, which was apparently in stark contrast to the efficient and friendly Chinese immigrations and customs. My experience couldn’t have been more different. Although every page of my passport was examined thoroughly under UV light, I breezed through Russian immigrations, and customs didn’t even ask to look in my bags.

In the queue of Chinese immigrations I was singled out three times to open my bag and show the contents to bored officials. Once I got to the front of the queue and presented my passport, I was instructed to join another queue. Once again, as soon as I presented my passport, I was asked what country I was from and sent off to go and sit on a chair.

A more senior official came and took a look at my passport, then my visa, and then disappeared muttering something about India (I had obtained my Visa in New Delhi). Another official sidled up to me for a chat. Although he was being friendly, all his questions were very leading and I was clearly being interviewed.

Eventually the older, more stern official returned with my passport open on one page and pointed at it. It was a page with an entry stamp to Ecuador. I was a little surprised as I didn’t realise China poor diplomatic relations with Ecuador. “Ecuador?” I asked. “No!” he scoffed and pointed at a little tear in the page and turned around and stormed off.

After a 10 minute wait I was told that I could pass through immigrations, a younger official filled in my arrival card for me, and the friendly women behind the desk then chatted to me about all the stamps in my passport and whether I intended to stay to watch the olympics. I thought it might be a trick question as I new my visa doesn’t extend that long so I told that I unfortunately wouldn’t be.

Customs! For the fourth time I had to unpack my bag, but this time it was done pretty thoroughly. The were mostly interested in DVDs I had and all my reading material.

By the time I had cleared customs and emerged from the building, my bus and savior Anne were gone. I had been deserted in the middle of no where. What now????

Dulce Et Decorum Est, Pro Patria Mori?

Having stayed specifically for the victory parade in Vladivostok, I haven’t been disappointed. The only irritation were the throngs of people trying to get in front of me to witness the marching soldiers and the procession of tanks.




I was up a little earlier this morning to get down to the parade ground for what I had heard would be a 9 May victory parade of the likes that haven’t been seen since Soviet times. I have never seen one before so I have nothing to compare it with. I spoke to a few sailors from the USS Strethem which is currently docked in Vladivostok and they seemed to think that it was quite a show with some impressive artillery on display. I am not particularly knowledgeable about killing machines so I can’t tell you what I saw. Here are a few pictures of the marching, flag waving and elaborate killing machines.






It was on 9 May 1945 that the Russian Army marched into Berlin and declared victory over Germany (I don’t think it any coincidence that Saving Private Ryan was on TV last night). Judging by the turnout of both young and old at today’s parade, it is clearly a day of great significance in Russia. What is also evidenced is that it is not just the teary-eyed war veterans that are strongly patriotic of Russia

As the celebrations and parades spread west as the sun rises over Russia, I have retired to my hotel room to prepare for my trip to China tomorrow. I hope to make my way out tonight to catch some of the fireworks.

Studio Coffee and other great places in Vladivostok

I’ve settled into a routine in Vladivostok. Its an easy thing to do. This is a great city, very refined, and sophisticated. How my opinion of it has changed during my longer than planned stay here.


Studio coffee is one place that features in my routine. I have studied the menu long enough to decipher a few familiar dishes and I have worked out my waitress Aleksandra's name (Александpа). She has served me for each of the last 3 days. She doesn’t speak English but we have a good understanding. We have only had one misunderstanding.

I spent ages examining the menu and found what I thought I was looking for: . Unfortunately I got a chocolate milkshake instead of a hot chocolate but it was a good milkshake anyway. My knowledge of the alphabet is fast improving. Pizza, Latte, Miller Pivo and California Rolls have been other tasty successes that I have had.

A few other places I recommend in Vladivostok are:

I also found a few English books. There are English set works for Russian students of English but they are better than nothing. I even found an Russian-English phrase book. Unfortunately its for Russians trying to get by in English so I don’t have any reference phonetic reference and it doesn’t help me much with my only a rudimentary understanding of cyrillics.

I am staying for Victory Day Celebrations in Vladivostok

I now have a map of the city. Its in Russian but my Russian spelling is fast improving. I managed to find a travel agency I looked up and it looks like I once again have a plan.


I also happens that I found a travel agency with some rather competent English speakers. Evgenya at DALINTOURIST Travel Agency has been able to help me out with getting to Harbin. Apparently the train is full and she has suggested that I catch a 4am bus across the boarder to Suifenhe in China and then catch a local bus to Harbin. It costs me about the same but the trip is two days quicker.


With that in mind, I have now decided that I will stay on in Vladivostok for a little longer. I think it worthwhile to stay for the 9 May Victory day celebrations, which, according to Evgenya, is the most important holiday in Russia. I also have heard that this year these celebrations are likely to be a show of military force, the likes of which haven’t been see since Soviet times.

My changing thoughts on Vladivostok

Unlike most people who do this trip, I am starting out in the East and heading West. That makes my travels a little more difficult I think. I certainly think that I could get things done a little easier in Moscow than it appears I can in Vladivostok. I also think most independent travelers are a little more fluent in Russian by the time they get this far. I finally made my way to the Service Centre at the Vladivostok train station which apparently offers translation services. I had no such luck. It seems that I am having little luck getting on the train I had hoped to. Its a bi-weekly service to Harbin in China. Its meant to be a killer of a journey. It takes 3 days to cover 780 kms at an average speed of 22 kph. My guide book, which I have decided is not particularly accurate, suggests not taking this route. Other sources I have seen say it is altogether impossible.

So far my experience of this afternoon seems to indicate that this is the case despite the schedule I was able to pull off the internet. I know it exists. It is train number 351 and it departs at 16h00 local time every Monday and Thursday (9am Moscow time).


I transcribed a Russian note in Cyrillic indicating I wanted a ticket on this train and was told in no uncertain terms that it is not available, ever. I didn’t understand a word, but it was made abundantly clear to me that I couldn’t have this ticket. I was however told that it would cost 2150 Roubles. Are you as confused as me?


Tomorrow I am heading to the university to enlist the help of some students who will, I hope, be able to speak some English.


I have asked for help from my hotel but they only suggesting writing out what I want in Russian. I have managed to do that myself already, so it is of little help to me now.


One of the many consolations however, is the great places that I am finding Vladivostok to be. My initial impressions weren’t too good. Other than a few monuments and churches there didn’t seem much to the place. Getting an English Map of the city has proved impossible (Its not even on google maps) and I have found little about the place on tripadvisor or other internet resources.


Having walked the streets, I have now found a couple of fabulous places. Studio Coffee just off Svetlanskaya street is just one such gem. Although there is no English on the menus, I am now able to work out enough of the alphabet to order a latte and Californian Rolls. It also has free wifi!!


Vladivostok was a closed city until 1995. It is now a very cosmopolitan city boasts numerous boutique fashion stores, every conceivable designer label, and is teaming with beautiful ladies, and the air of the crowds on the Forkina street mall are filled with the sweet smells of perfume and at times I have even felt rather underdressed.


I am quite enjoying camping out here until I sort out my travel arrangements.


I have had no luck finding anything resembling an English bookstore. I was hoping to pick up some new literature, preferably Tolstoy, before I board my first train, but it appears unlikely.

Held up in Vladivostok

I am an independant traveler that likes to do things my own way. Its for this reason that I flew into Vladivostok from Kamchatka without a hotel booking, or a plan beyond clearing the departure hall.


I travel like this because I find the challenge interesting, and I have an innate belief in the good of humanity, or more specifically, my common man.


It seems however that a plan, and the ability to speak a modicum of Russian would have served me a little better. I didn’t even make the arrivals hall of Vladivostok airport. I got on the wrong bus out of the plane and find myself in the transit hall. “Nyet Transit...ski” and showing enough security officials my plane ticket finally had me escorted to the arrivals hall where my baggage was fortunately still waiting for me.