My changing thoughts on Vladivostok

Unlike most people who do this trip, I am starting out in the East and heading West. That makes my travels a little more difficult I think. I certainly think that I could get things done a little easier in Moscow than it appears I can in Vladivostok. I also think most independent travelers are a little more fluent in Russian by the time they get this far. I finally made my way to the Service Centre at the Vladivostok train station which apparently offers translation services. I had no such luck. It seems that I am having little luck getting on the train I had hoped to. Its a bi-weekly service to Harbin in China. Its meant to be a killer of a journey. It takes 3 days to cover 780 kms at an average speed of 22 kph. My guide book, which I have decided is not particularly accurate, suggests not taking this route. Other sources I have seen say it is altogether impossible.

So far my experience of this afternoon seems to indicate that this is the case despite the schedule I was able to pull off the internet. I know it exists. It is train number 351 and it departs at 16h00 local time every Monday and Thursday (9am Moscow time).


I transcribed a Russian note in Cyrillic indicating I wanted a ticket on this train and was told in no uncertain terms that it is not available, ever. I didn’t understand a word, but it was made abundantly clear to me that I couldn’t have this ticket. I was however told that it would cost 2150 Roubles. Are you as confused as me?


Tomorrow I am heading to the university to enlist the help of some students who will, I hope, be able to speak some English.


I have asked for help from my hotel but they only suggesting writing out what I want in Russian. I have managed to do that myself already, so it is of little help to me now.


One of the many consolations however, is the great places that I am finding Vladivostok to be. My initial impressions weren’t too good. Other than a few monuments and churches there didn’t seem much to the place. Getting an English Map of the city has proved impossible (Its not even on google maps) and I have found little about the place on tripadvisor or other internet resources.


Having walked the streets, I have now found a couple of fabulous places. Studio Coffee just off Svetlanskaya street is just one such gem. Although there is no English on the menus, I am now able to work out enough of the alphabet to order a latte and Californian Rolls. It also has free wifi!!


Vladivostok was a closed city until 1995. It is now a very cosmopolitan city boasts numerous boutique fashion stores, every conceivable designer label, and is teaming with beautiful ladies, and the air of the crowds on the Forkina street mall are filled with the sweet smells of perfume and at times I have even felt rather underdressed.


I am quite enjoying camping out here until I sort out my travel arrangements.


I have had no luck finding anything resembling an English bookstore. I was hoping to pick up some new literature, preferably Tolstoy, before I board my first train, but it appears unlikely.