Wednesday, June 11, 2008

The fast disappearing Hutongs of Beijing

I am not going to dwell on my experience of Beijing. I believe there is plenty of more informed opinion out there. I stayed in Shanglin Hostel/Leo 2 Hostel. It was great. The people were really friendly, I am a sucker for free wifi, and it was nice to have a Hutong courtyard experience. I returned to stay there a total of 4 times.


Beijing seems to be in the grips of frantic preparation for the Olympic games which kick off in 2 months time. In my numerous trip to Beijing spanning a 4 weeks, I would see buildings torn down and new ones erected. I snuck behind a few barriers and spent some time walking around the old hutongs of Beijing. Many of these building have what appear to be demolition orders plastered to their walls and people remain living in these half demolished buildings. I have been told that the current inhabitants of these hutongs are being expropriated and no longer live in the rebuilt modern buildings that are fast replacing them.


I found the people in Beijing very friendly and encountered students who, looking to practice their English, would happily act as an impromptu tour guide for hours on end. I also happened upon other with less altruistic motives.


For a great Eng lish/American breakfast I recommend Grandma's Kitchen. They have a few location peppered around Beijing. Their great western food comes with free wifi. The nearby tiny Poet's Cafe serves great dumplings (not on the menu) and although the tea is quite price,y the proprietors, a young couple, are very friendly and also offer free Internet. My favourite place however, is the somewhat pricey, but always bustling Sakura cafe at the entrance to 365 Inn.


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